So use 20 Vol for the lengths and make a separate mix, using 10 Vol for the root area. A little more cumbersome but equally valid method would be to adjust the developer strength.Rinse as soon as the root area is looking done. Do the lengths first, then do the root area, which you need to watch carefully. Apply at the root area last, as discussed above.The solution here is once again to adjust the development time at the root area, or the developer choice for the root area or both. Not so attractive and nothing like the cherry red that she wanted! If you look carefully at the root area, you will see that our model's stylist has unfortunately over-processed the root area, with the consequence that it is looking "orange-blonde". Yes unfortunately it is totally possible. IS IT POSSIBLE TO GET "HOT ROOTS" WHEN COLORING DARKER? In this way we avoided a "hot root" and we got a great result. So when we applied Intense Pearl Blonde Toner 100V with 10 Vol, we applied first to the lengths, then to the root area. We used Brilliant Blonde and 20 Vol Developer at the root area to deal with a dark regrowth.Īfter processing and rinsing the root area was actually lighter than the lengths. Press on the image below to watch video of how we got rid of these dark roots!Ĭase No.2: Root Area Lighter Then the Ends We toned with Silver Blonde toner (10B) and Pearl Blonde toner (10V), mixed 50/50. So when toning, we started applying color on this mid-section area where it was yellow. We wiped back the bleach mixture during processing to avoid the bleach processing the lightened ends.Īfter rinsing we saw that the part that was the yellowest was 4 - 6 inches away from the root area. We wanted to deposit a lot of mixture and really saturate and lift this extremely dark regrowth. We made it fairly pasty, a little less developer than usual: 1 part lightener to 1.5 parts lightener. We mixed Brilliant Blonde Lightener with 30 Vol. There could also be breakage issues because the ends were super light. This girl's lengths have been lightened so many times that there could be banding issues unless we did it right. although the lengths were super white blonde.Ĭlearly here we need to do the root area first and not even touch the rest to begin with.
Here we had a huge, extremely dark regrowth. Case No.1: Extremely Dark Roots, Light Ends. Very often the ends have been colored multiple times and they are lighter and maybe even over-processed.īut the root area (the regrowth area) has been lifted less often, less well and is also maybe dark virgin hair. You need to make sure that the hair has been lifted to the same level as the ends. So in this case you need to deal with the regrowth first and lift it. In this case you have more to lift at the regrowth area than elsewhere. (C) COLORING LIGHTER WITH A DARK REGROWTHīut if you have a dark regrowth, and you have lighter ends, then the opposite is true. Return to that part at the end and rinse when the root area achieve their desired color. So once again, in such cases, do the ends first, leaving out the inch nearest to the roots. Her roots are going to go light fast and you could end up with "hot roots" if you are not careful! The above is especially true if your client is already a blonde with thin hair. So if you are trying to go lighter across your whole head and you have long hair, it would be best to do the roots at the end and do the lengths first. This is especially true if you are bleaching. If you are coloring lighter, you need to be aware that hair at the roots will always lift faster than elsewhere because of the heat of the scalp. If you are coloring level on level or coloring darker, just start at the roots and extend to the rest of the hair. SOME GENERAL RULES ABOUT WHETHER TO COLOR ROOTS FIRST OR LAST In this case we need to apply Brilliant Blondexx and 20 Vol to that regrowth area and lift it first.
Our model has a very brassy regrowth area. You can see that the situation is exactly the reverse. That would be the correct way to lift this hair and avoid hot roots. In this case, we would recommend an application of Brilliant Blondexx and 20 Vol to the entire head (as it is all brassy) but starting from the ends first. You can see that our model's hair is brassier at the ends as compared to the root area.
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